The Chef

The Chef

4.14.2014

foraging

If you've ever driven through wine country in the spring you've seen the spray of beautiful yellow flowers that splash through vineyards and line the sides of the road.  Napa is notorious for this wash of yellow and Oregon doesn't seem to be falling too far behind.  This lanky abundant plant is mustard, and although I have yet to make the fabulous yellow condiment we all know and love, the greens have grazed our kitchen table more than once this spring.  Not only do I get a kick out of finding something delicious and free growing wild around me (particularly before the garden has started producing), mustard greens are nutritional powerhouses.  Deborah Madison in her cookbook, Vegetable Literacy, writes "...the mustards are powerful plants, endowed with vitamins A, C and K, and that's not all.  Add vitamin E, calcium, fiber, and manganese, plus antioxidants and phytonutrients, and you have another plant that supports detoxifying functions."

I tend to think of these greens as a cross between arugula, spinach and swiss chard.  They have a spicy strong flavor reminiscent of arugula, yet they cook down like spinach and do well blanched or sautéed. With that in mind they hardly need a recipe to put them to use, but here's the latest one we tried, a sort of clean out the pantry/fridge week night indian sauté.

Note: although mustard greens are difficult to confuse with other plants due to their tell tale four petaled yellow flowers and arugula shaped leaves, always be sure to correctly identify wild food sources.  There are numerous foraging books and trusted internet websites that can help guide you through local foraging.  In addition, make sure to chose a location away from roads and other pollutants.  Soak and wash foraged foods well.


Indian Spiced Lentils with Mustard Greens and Baked Yam Rounds


  • 1 large bowl of trimmed mustard greens
  • 1 large yam or sweet potato cut into 1/2" thick rounds, skin on
  • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  • minced cilantro stems from 1 bunch cilantro
  • 1 1/2 cups rinsed lentils, Le Puy or beluga, soaked overnight if possible
  • 2 tbsp coconut or sesame oil
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 
  • 2 tsp black or yellow mustard seeds
  • 1 1/2 tsp curry powder
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • juice of 1 lime, plus additional lime wedges for serving

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.  Place yam rounds onto a lightly oiled baking tray, drizzle with sesame or coconut oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper and 1 tsp of the ground cumin.  Bake until soft when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes.  


While sweet potatoes are cooking, place lentils in a pot with three cups of water, season water with salt and bring to a boil,  Cover lentils and simmer until tender, stirring occasionally.  Drain lentils.  

On another burner, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Add trimmed mustard greens to boiling water and cook for 2 minutes.  Drain in a colander and rinse with cold water to stop cooking.  Once drained, remove to cutting board and chop coarsely.  

Place 2 tbsp oil in a sauté pan over medium heat, add onion, stir to coat with oil, and cook gently until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes.  Add remaining spices and cilantro stems, stir again and let cook for another few minutes.  Add cooked and drained lentils to onion mixture, along with mustard greens.  Stir over low heat to let flavors combine and taste for salt and pepper.  Once all ingredients are warm, remove from heat.  Place 2-3 yam rounds on a plate, pile with mustard green/lentil mixture.  Top with fresh chopped cilantro and a squeeze of fresh lime.



3.28.2014

new beginnings

Spring is here in wine country.  It arrived so quickly it felt like a palpable shift in energy.  A blossoming of cherry trees, sprays of wild flowers on rainy walks, daffodils pushing through the earth and a balminess forgotten about since last fall.  It's joyful and rejuvenating and blissfully wonderful.  Spring is the doorway to all kinds of new beginnings.  The garden is calling and vegetable starts are growing quickly, ready to brave the early spring rains and short bursts of sunshine.  On a lucky day it hits the high 60s and somehow, falsely, summer seems right around the corner.  I can taste ripe tomatoes and pan seared pardon peppers in my dreams.

But, there's still time.  A lot of time.  This week has brought inches of rain, a reminder that we're still in for a few months of kale, kohlrabi, arugula, and spinach before the colors of summer join us in the kitchen.


New beginnings.  Last July, Aaron and I packed up our few belongings, our curly head pup Mosely, and countless memories from our halcyon days on the farm, and moved.  Only a 10 minute drive from our old place, our new home felt like a world away and I can't deny there was an anxiousness and nervousness accompanying the excitement and joy.  No longer secluded on a 180 acre, tree lined, peaceful farm, we were thrown into a cul-de-sac with children bouncing balls up our driveway, friendly neighbors, dogs barking at each other through fences, and a house to take care of.  A large house, one to grow into.

It's been fantastic.  I can't say we haven't looked back, or reminisced, or traveled back to memories of early love and no responsibility, but overall we have absolutely loved our new home, community and lives.  Instead of sprawling fields and farm land to wander, we have our own acre to cultivate and countless walking trails to explore, vineyards to roam and cute little restaurants to enjoy.  Over Christmas we got engaged in our beautiful new home and my two nephews, one here (hi Wesley!) and one not yet born visited us over New Years Eve, still safe in the warmth their mothers.  There are going to be a lot of new memories in this place and I can't wait.  Each day a new adventure.  New beginnings can be wonderful.

So, what better way to ring in the start of Spring with than a meal to celebrate the joy of early crop asparagus?  This started out as a sort of "clean out the fridge" one dish meal and turned into one of our favorite dinners in a long time.  I apologize for the lack of pictures and quality of the only picture we did capture before the meal was over.  I wasn't planning on this being my first post back on the blog, but it was too yummy and too much an impromptu celebration of spring not to share.  Enjoy!


Lemon Bulgur Asparagus Bowl

  • 1 bunch of asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2 inch pieces
  • 2 sweet potatoes, cubed
  • 1 clove of garlic, smashed and minced
  • 3 radishes, thinly sliced
  • 1 can of white beans (chickpeas would work well too) or two cups of fresh cooked beans
  • 1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
  • 3 cups cooked bulgur or other whole grain of choice
  • 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
  • 2 tbsp. chopped rosemary
  • 2 tbsp. chopped sage
  • juice from 1 lemon
  • olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • sliced avocado (optional) to serve

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.  Cut up vegetables and garlic.  Toss sweet potatoes with garlic, salt, pepper and a tbsp. of olive oil.  Place on a rimed baking sheet and bake until potatoes are soft when pierced with a fork and browned in places, about 20 minutes.  Add asparagus and bake for 5 minutes more.  Add white beans and radishes to baking tray and bake for a few more minutes, turn oven off and leave tray in oven while you prep the rest of the ingredients, toast the pine nuts in a frying pan on the stove top and set the table.  Toss bulgur, fresh herbs, 1/2 the lemon juice, 1 tbsp. olive oil, pine nuts and roasted vegetables together.  Taste, add more lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish each bowl with a few slices of fresh avocado, a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkling of fresh black pepper.  Enjoy!

Feel free to substitute fresh vegetables and herbs to fit your tastes!